{"id":26967,"date":"2021-07-17T13:21:15","date_gmt":"2021-07-17T13:21:15","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/?p=26967"},"modified":"2024-03-28T15:37:14","modified_gmt":"2024-03-28T13:37:14","slug":"lidiya-todieva-the-designer-who-restores-the-national-gagauz-costume","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/ro\/lidiya-todieva-the-designer-who-restores-the-national-gagauz-costume\/","title":{"rendered":"Lidia Todieva \u2013 designerul care restaureaz\u0103 costumele na\u021bionale g\u0103g\u0103uze"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p><strong>Costumul na\u021bional face parte din identitatea oric\u0103rei na\u021biuni. \u00cen costum este criptat codul cultural \u2013 aceste ornamente de pe broderie, materialele folosite la cusut \u0219i setul complet al costumului \u00een sine. \u00cen lumea modern\u0103, cultura general\u0103 a \u00eenlocuit costumul na\u021bional cu \u00eembr\u0103c\u0103minte universal\u0103. Tinerii poart\u0103 blugi peste tot: \u00een Comrat, Moscova \u0219i New York. \u00cen timp ce identitatea etnic\u0103 care se reflect\u0103 \u00een \u00eembr\u0103c\u0103minte a devenit pe locul doi \u0219i \u0219i-a g\u0103sit locul doar \u00een zilele de s\u0103rb\u0103tori, festivaluri \u0219i \u00een muzeele etnografice.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"614\" height=\"410\" src=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-5-of-27-614x410.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-26922\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-5-of-27-614x410.jpg 614w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-5-of-27-285x190.jpg 285w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-5-of-27-768x513.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-5-of-27.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 614px) 100vw, 614px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Aceea\u0219i soart\u0103 a avut \u0219i costumul g\u0103g\u0103uz &#8211; \u00een lumea globaliz\u0103rii, a fost \u00eenlocuit din via\u021ba de zi cu zi cu lucrurile cu care suntem obi\u0219nui\u021bi, \u00een ciuda faptului c\u0103 costumul g\u0103g\u0103uz \u00een sine nu este deloc familiar pentru spa\u021biul moldovenesc, unde domin\u0103 \u021bes\u0103tura alb\u0103 cu broderii (la moldoveni, rom\u00e2ni \u0219i ucraineni). Costumul g\u0103g\u0103uz este original, nu folose\u0219te broderii, dar sunt folosite diferite culori de \u021bes\u0103tur\u0103. Luminoase \u0219i colorate, acest lucru \u00eel eviden\u021baz\u0103 de celelalte.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Lidia Todieva tr\u0103ie\u0219te \u0219i lucreaz\u0103 \u00een Cead\u00eer-Lunga. Este renumit\u0103 \u00een toat\u0103 G\u0103g\u0103uzia pentru restaurarea costumelor na\u021bionale g\u0103g\u0103uze. Ea le ofer\u0103 a doua \u0219ans\u0103 &#8211; s\u0103 devin\u0103 din nou \u00een vog\u0103 \u0219i populare.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Lidia s-a n\u0103scut \u0219i a crescut \u00een Cead\u00eer-Lunga, \u00eentr-o familie de croitori. Tat\u0103l \u0219i doi dintre fra\u021bii ei erau croitori. A p\u0103\u0219it pe urmele lor \u0219i a intrat la \u0218coala Politehnic\u0103 din Chi\u0219in\u0103u, acum este Colegiul Politehnic de la R\u00ee\u0219canovca, ca tehnolog croitor. Dup\u0103 absolvire, \u00een 1980, a intrat la departamentul de coresponden\u021b\u0103 la Institutul Tehnologic din Kiev:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>\u201e\u0218coala tehnic\u0103 mi-a oferit cuno\u0219tin\u021be deosebite. Eram tehnolog, dar eram foarte geloas\u0103 pe designerii vestimentari. Ei puteau fi recunoscu\u021bi \u00een ora\u0219 &#8211; \u00een acei ani, doar designerii no\u0219tri se \u00eembr\u0103cau bine. Ace\u0219tia erau cele frumoase fete, felul \u00een care erau \u00eembr\u0103cate demonstra clar c\u0103 erau ale noastre\u201d.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"614\" height=\"410\" src=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-2-of-27-614x410.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-26913\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-2-of-27-614x410.jpg 614w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-2-of-27-285x190.jpg 285w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-2-of-27-768x513.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-2-of-27.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 614px) 100vw, 614px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Dup\u0103 studii, s-a \u00eentors la Cead\u00eer-Lunga, unde a \u00eenceput s\u0103 lucreze. C\u00e2\u021biva ani la r\u00e2nd a lucrat \u00eentr-o fabric\u0103 \u0219i preda educa\u021bia tehnologic\u0103 la o \u0219coal\u0103. Acum, deja de 13 ani, lucreaz\u0103 la Centrul de creativitate pentru copii. Ini\u021bial, a \u00eenceput s\u0103 lucreze \u00een acest centru \u0219i s\u0103 coase haine din materiale netradi\u021bionale &#8211; h\u00e2rtie, p\u00e2nz\u0103 de ulei. V\u0103z\u00e2nd pe scen\u0103 modelele \u00een astfel de costume, mul\u021bi nu credeau c\u0103 din astfel de materiale ar putea fi create hainele de mod\u0103 \u00eenalt\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Cu toate acestea, \u00een via\u021ba Lidiei a avut loc un eveniment care i-a transformat toat\u0103 munca \u00eentr-o direc\u021bie radical diferit\u0103. \u00cen 2012, a mers la un seminar \u00een Carpa\u021bii ucraineni. A fost foarte surprins\u0103 de respectul cu care me\u0219te\u0219ugarii locali, ucraineni trateaz\u0103 costumul na\u021bional, broderia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201e<em>Atelierele de broderii au fost foarte interesante! S-a acordat o aten\u021bie deosebit\u0103 costumului lor na\u021bional &#8211; p\u0103cat c\u0103 nu avem o astfel de broderie \u0219i noi. Mul\u021bi ani la r\u00e2nd mi-am pus \u00eentrebarea de ce toat\u0103 lumea are un costum na\u021bional, dar noi nu avem. Trebuie s\u0103 le transmitem ceva copiilor no\u0219tri, cred c\u0103 ei (copiii) nu vor ierta dac\u0103 nu le vom spune cum ar\u0103ta acesta<\/em>\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u00centorc\u00e2ndu-se acas\u0103, cu o dorin\u021b\u0103 aprins\u0103 de a \u00eencepe s\u0103 lucreze la tema costumelor na\u021bionale, a \u00eenceput s\u0103 lucreze mai \u00eent\u00e2i la costumele pentru p\u0103pu\u0219i. De altfel, oamenii o cunosc pe Lidia ca &#8211; produc\u0103tor de costume pentru p\u0103pu\u0219i, dar de fapt, p\u0103pu\u0219ile au fost prima etap\u0103 pe drumul cre\u0103rii costumului na\u021bional g\u0103g\u0103uz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201e<em>La \u00eenceput a fost dificil s\u0103 creez o colec\u021bie de costume na\u021bionale g\u0103g\u0103uze pentru adul\u021bi, deoarece cheltuielile pentru materiale sunt mari. Dar, deoarece aveam \u00een stoc c\u00e2teva p\u0103pu\u0219i sovietice de bun\u0103 calitate, am decis s\u0103 le fac costume na\u021bionale autentice pentru expozi\u021bie. Ast\u0103zi, nu mai am aceast\u0103 colec\u021bie, s-a epuizat. Mi-a fost greu s\u0103 m\u0103 despart de ele, pentru c\u0103 \u00een acea colec\u021bie am \u00eencercat s\u0103 nu repet nici un element. Nu a existat nici un model similar cu altul. \u00cen ciuda faptului c\u0103 exist\u0103 o mul\u021bime de mici detalii \u00een ele, am folosit totul p\u00e2n\u0103 la cel mai mic lucru<\/em>&#8220;.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Faptul c\u0103 costumele au fost \u0219i sunt f\u0103cute pentru p\u0103pu\u0219i nu \u00eenseamn\u0103 deloc c\u0103 ceva le lipse\u0219te. Lidia recreeaz\u0103 costumul \u00een fiecare detaliu, dar \u00een cantitate mic\u0103. Acest lucru \u00eei ajut\u0103 pe oamenii, care doresc s\u0103 comande un costum, s\u0103 vad\u0103 cum va ar\u0103ta &#8211; s\u0103 aleag\u0103 o gam\u0103 de culori lu\u00e2nd \u00een considerare toate elementele.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201e<em>P\u0103pu\u0219ile nu sunt o pictur\u0103, o po\u021bi vedea din toate p\u0103r\u021bile, ca \u00een 3D. \u00cen lucrul asupra p\u0103pu\u0219ei \u021bin cont de tenul fe\u021bei, de culoarea ochilor, acest lucru \u00eemi u\u0219ureaz\u0103 alegerea nuan\u021bei \u0219or\u021bului, finisajele. Alegerea nuan\u021belor este foarte dificil\u0103 &#8211; exist\u0103 at\u00e2t de multe nuan\u021be de alb. \u00cen ciuda faptului c\u0103 lucrez pe p\u0103pu\u0219\u0103 terminat\u0103, de foarte multe ori trebuie s\u0103 \u00eei refac talia. Frumuse\u021bea o po\u021bi ar\u0103ta doar prin talie. Prin \u00eens\u0103\u0219i \u021bes\u0103tura. Pentru ca o p\u0103pu\u0219\u0103 s\u0103 fie gata am nevoie de o s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103<\/em>&#8220;.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-3 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"614\" height=\"410\" src=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-4-of-27-614x410.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"26919\" data-full-url=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-4-of-27.jpg\" data-link=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/?attachment_id=26919\" class=\"wp-image-26919\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-4-of-27-614x410.jpg 614w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-4-of-27-285x190.jpg 285w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-4-of-27-768x513.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-4-of-27.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 614px) 100vw, 614px\" \/><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"614\" height=\"410\" src=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-3-of-27-614x410.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"26916\" data-full-url=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-3-of-27.jpg\" data-link=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/?attachment_id=26916\" class=\"wp-image-26916\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-3-of-27-614x410.jpg 614w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-3-of-27-285x190.jpg 285w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-3-of-27-768x513.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-3-of-27.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 614px) 100vw, 614px\" \/><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"274\" height=\"410\" src=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-8-of-27-274x410.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"26931\" data-full-url=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-8-of-27.jpg\" data-link=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/?attachment_id=26931\" class=\"wp-image-26931\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-8-of-27-274x410.jpg 274w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-8-of-27-127x190.jpg 127w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-8-of-27-768x1151.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-8-of-27.jpg 801w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 274px) 100vw, 274px\" \/><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"614\" height=\"410\" src=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-7-of-27-614x410.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"26928\" data-full-url=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-7-of-27.jpg\" data-link=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/?attachment_id=26928\" class=\"wp-image-26928\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-7-of-27-614x410.jpg 614w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-7-of-27-285x190.jpg 285w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-7-of-27-768x513.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-7-of-27.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 614px) 100vw, 614px\" \/><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>P\u0103pu\u0219ile ei au devenit populare &#8211; oamenii, muzeele le cump\u0103r\u0103, sunt la mare c\u0103utare. La \u00eenceput i-a fost greu s\u0103 se despart\u0103 de ele &#8211; una dintre primele p\u0103pu\u0219i a fost cump\u0103rat\u0103 de o femeie. Mult timp, a convins-o pe Lidia s\u0103 i-o v\u00e2nd\u0103:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201e<em>Una dintre primele p\u0103pu\u0219i a fost at\u00e2t de cump\u0103rat\u0103 de o femeie pentru c\u0103 sem\u0103na cu bunica ei. A \u00eembr\u0103\u021bi\u0219at-o \u0219i purtat-o \u200b\u200b\u00een m\u00e2in\u0103 cu at\u00e2ta grij\u0103 &#8211; \u00een toat\u0103 pia\u021ba, f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103 o ascund\u0103<\/em>\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dup\u0103 p\u0103pu\u0219i, Lidia a trecut la costume mari. Cel mai des, \u00een\u0219i\u0219i oamenii \u00eei aduc costumele &#8211; v\u0103d fotografii ale lucr\u0103rilor ei \u00een ziar \u0219i \u00een\u021beleg c\u0103 pot avea \u00eencredere \u00een ea:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201e<em>\u00cemi aduc lucruri vechi \u0219i eu le restabilesc. O b\u0103tr\u00e2nic\u0103 a adus o rochie roz, \u0219i spunea: \u201eAm ascuns-o \u0219i p\u0103strat-o \u00een lad\u0103 foarte mult timp. A fost cusut\u0103 de mama mea \u0219i pentru mine are o mare \u00eensemn\u0103tate. Ea a f\u0103cut fiecare cut\u0103 cu propriile m\u00e2ini\u201d. C\u00e2nd a v\u0103zut ni\u0219te fotografii cu primele noastre rochii \u00een ziar, mi-a adus-o cu \u00eencredere. Dup\u0103 primul nostru festival, c\u00e2nd a v\u0103zut o fat\u0103 \u00eembr\u0103cat\u0103 \u00een acea rochie, pe podium, ea a spus: \u201eAcum sunt \u00eemp\u0103cat\u0103<\/em>\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"news-detail__slider-wrap\"><div class=\"news-detail__slider\"><div class=\"news-detail__slider-item\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-12-of-27-e1626517740206.jpg\" alt=\"news\"><\/div><div class=\"news-detail__slider-item\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\" alt=\"news\"><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Rochiile care ajung la ea pe masa de cusut sunt restaurate, \u00een unele cazuri sunt \u00eembun\u0103t\u0103\u021bite \u021bin\u00e2nd cont de tehnologiile moderne, dar \u0219i f\u0103r\u0103 a uita de tradi\u021biile de croitorie din acele vremuri. Trebuie s\u0103 \u021binem minte c\u0103 aceste rochii au fost cusute cu zeci de ani \u00een urm\u0103, c\u00e2nd tehnica de cusut era foarte diferit\u0103 de cea modern\u0103. Lidia poate schimba ceva ad\u0103ug\u00e2nd un element sau schimb\u00e2ndu-l, dar conceptual costumul \u0219i croiala r\u0103m\u00e2n acelea\u0219i<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201e<em>Tehnica \u00een sine este at\u00e2t de complex\u0103, \u00eenc\u00e2t atunci c\u00e2nd apelez la o croitoreas\u0103 cu o anumit\u0103 comand\u0103, discut\u0103m \u0219i trebuie s\u0103 o \u00eenv\u0103\u021b cum s\u0103 coase. F\u0103r\u0103 autoacreativitate &#8211; aici acest lucru este imposibil, pentru c\u0103 un pas spre dreapta, un pas spre st\u00e2nga \u0219i po\u021bi s\u0103 strici costumul<\/em>\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center\"><strong>Costumul g\u0103g\u0103uz const\u0103 din mai multe p\u0103r\u021bi. Lidia explic\u0103 care sunt acestea:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>\u201e<em>Costumul g\u0103g\u0103uz pentru femei este format dintr-o c\u0103ma\u0219\u0103 lung\u0103, numit\u0103 \u201eici ghelme\u201d. Deasupra se \u00eembr\u0103ca o rochie f\u0103r\u0103 m\u00e2neci, sub form\u0103 de \u0219arafan &#8211; se nume\u0219te &#8220;ciucman&#8221;. Apoi \u0219or\u021bul. Acesta este un complet de costum de var\u0103. Toamna, se purta o rochie din \u021bes\u0103tur\u0103 mai groas\u0103 \u0219i cu m\u00e2neci lungi. \u00cen plus, a r\u0103mas c\u0103ma\u0219a cu m\u00e2nec\u0103 lung\u0103 \u0219i rochia, tot cu m\u00e2nec\u0103 lung\u0103, apoi deasupra se \u00eembr\u0103ca &#8220;mentanocichi\u201d din piele (ca o pelerin\u0103). De asemenea, se purta un complet compus din fust\u0103, vest\u0103 \u0219i cu un peplum. Peplumul este partea inferioar\u0103, acum am elaborat deja o t\u0103ietur\u0103 modern\u0103 a unui astfel de peplum, conform principiului sutanei. Subliniaz\u0103 silueta \u00eentr-un mod at\u00e2t de original, deoarece este \u0219i una dintre caracteristicile principale ale costumului &#8211; o siluet\u0103 neap\u0103rat supl\u0103. Chiar \u0219i bunica mea, care s-a n\u0103scut \u00een 1903, din anumite motive, \u00eemi vorbea \u0219i ar\u0103ta mereu talia \u2013 ca element important. \u00cen afar\u0103 de acest lucru, costumul g\u0103g\u0103uz pentru femei nu are decolteu: clema este dreapt\u0103 de-a lungul decolteului p\u00e2n\u0103 la g\u00e2t, totul trebui s\u0103 fie complet \u00eenchis. M\u00e2neci lungi &#8211; nu mai scurte dec\u00e2t cotul. Lungimea rochiei \u2013 mai jos de genunchi\u201d.<\/em><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery aligncenter columns-4 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-2 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"274\" height=\"410\" src=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-23-of-27-274x410.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"26955\" data-full-url=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-23-of-27.jpg\" data-link=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/?attachment_id=26955\" class=\"wp-image-26955\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-23-of-27-274x410.jpg 274w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-23-of-27-127x190.jpg 127w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-23-of-27-768x1151.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-23-of-27.jpg 801w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 274px) 100vw, 274px\" \/><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"274\" height=\"410\" src=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-21-of-27-274x410.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"26952\" data-full-url=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-21-of-27.jpg\" data-link=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/?attachment_id=26952\" class=\"wp-image-26952\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-21-of-27-274x410.jpg 274w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-21-of-27-127x190.jpg 127w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-21-of-27-768x1151.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-21-of-27.jpg 801w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 274px) 100vw, 274px\" \/><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"274\" height=\"410\" src=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-20-of-27-274x410.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"26949\" data-full-url=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-20-of-27.jpg\" data-link=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/?attachment_id=26949\" class=\"wp-image-26949\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-20-of-27-274x410.jpg 274w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-20-of-27-127x190.jpg 127w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-20-of-27-768x1151.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-20-of-27.jpg 801w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 274px) 100vw, 274px\" \/><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"274\" height=\"410\" src=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-17-of-27-274x410.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"26946\" data-full-url=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-17-of-27.jpg\" data-link=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/?attachment_id=26946\" class=\"wp-image-26946\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-17-of-27-274x410.jpg 274w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-17-of-27-127x190.jpg 127w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-17-of-27-768x1151.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-17-of-27.jpg 801w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 274px) 100vw, 274px\" \/><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><em>\u201eUn al component care este, de asemenea, o caracteristic\u0103 a costumului g\u0103g\u0103uz, se numete &#8220;lift\u201d. Acestea sunt monede de aur maghiare. Ele erau mari \u0219i mici. Dup\u0103 num\u0103rul acestor monede, era posibil de determinat statutul unei fete. Lifturile erau purta\u021be chiar \u0219i la lucrul pe c\u00e2mp. C\u00e2nd caracteristica de baz\u0103 este broderia, se poate vorbi mai mult. Dar la costumul g\u0103g\u0103uz nu exist\u0103 broderii, deci nu exist\u0103 multe particularit\u0103\u021bi. Prin absen\u021ba broderii putem stabili c\u0103 acesta este un costum g\u0103g\u0103uz\u201d.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Oamenii g\u0103g\u0103uzi aveau costume diferite: de zi cu zi \u0219i festive. \u0218i, de asemenea, costumele au fost \u00eemp\u0103r\u021bite mai degrab\u0103 nu \u00een func\u021bie de sezon, ci de s\u0103rb\u0103torile religioase. De exemplu, era obi\u0219nuit ca de Pa\u0219ti s\u0103 se \u00a0\u00eennoiasc\u0103 toate hainele &#8211; fata trebuia s\u0103 apar\u0103 \u00eentr-o rochie nou\u0103, care s\u0103 corespund\u0103 \u0219i perioadei anului. Costumul vorbea foarte mult despre cultur\u0103 \u0219i era str\u00e2ns legat de alte p\u0103r\u021bi ale vie\u021bii g\u0103g\u0103uze: dansuri \u0219i nun\u021bi. De exemplu, o fust\u0103 era special cusut\u0103 cu o dosal\u0103 foarte grea, astfel \u00eenc\u00e2t atunci c\u00e2nd o fat\u0103 dansa, fusta forma un fel de cupol\u0103 \u00een jurul ei. \u00cen dans, fata arat\u0103 mai mult rochia dec\u00e2t pe sine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Rochia de mireas\u0103 era, de asemenea, diferit\u0103 de rochiile popoarelor vecine &#8211; aproape niciodat\u0103 nu era alb\u0103. Dimpotriv\u0103, avea o culoare nu foarte str\u0103lucitoare &#8211; smarald sau culoarea p\u0103m\u00e2ntului. Acest lucru se datoreaz\u0103 faptului c\u0103 la nunt\u0103, cea mai mare aten\u021bie se acorda martorilor, dec\u00e2t mirilor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"614\" height=\"410\" src=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-11-of-27-614x410.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-26940\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-11-of-27-614x410.jpg 614w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-11-of-27-285x190.jpg 285w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-11-of-27-768x513.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-11-of-27.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 614px) 100vw, 614px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Costumul reda foarte bine perioada \u0219i valorile de atunci. \u00cen Muzeul din Cead\u00eer-Lunga exist\u0103 o expozi\u021bie a unui costum de iarn\u0103. Costumul era destul de larg \u00een talie &#8211; un astfel de costum era popular \u00een anii 50, imediat dup\u0103 foametea din 1946-1947. Lidia sugereaz\u0103 c\u0103, dup\u0103 foamete, un semn de plin\u0103tate \u00eensemna prosperitatea unei persoane, iar acest lucruse f\u0103cea vizibil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u00cen ciuda faptului c\u0103 unele rela\u021bii cauzale ne sunt cunoscute, exist\u0103 o mul\u021bime de lacune \u00een istoria g\u0103g\u0103uzilor care trebuie \u00eenc\u0103 s\u0103 fie completate. Datorit\u0103 lacunelor din istorie, acum, \u00een secolul 21, este foarte dificil s\u0103 lucrezi la un costum g\u0103g\u0103uz:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>\u201eDesigur, exist\u0103 multe mistere \u00een istoria noastr\u0103 \u0219i a\u0219 vrea s\u0103 \u0219tiu multe pentru c\u0103 f\u0103r\u0103 acest trecut, nu pot s\u0103 croiesc costumele a\u0219a cum ar trebui s\u0103 fie. Probabil de aceea \u00eenc\u0103 nu se coase. S\u0103 \u00ee\u021bi asumi acest lucru \u0219i s\u0103-l promovezi ast\u0103zi, f\u0103r\u0103 o temelie \u0219i o baz\u0103, este foarte dificil. Des mi se spune: \u201eToat\u0103 lumea are broderii, numai noi nu le avem\u201d &#8211; \u0219i noi, ast\u0103zi, trebuie s\u0103 le invent\u0103m astfel \u00eenc\u00e2t dup\u0103 ele s\u0103 fim identifica\u021bi &#8211; \u201eDa, aceasta este o fat\u0103 g\u0103g\u0103uz\u0103\u201d. Acela\u0219i lucru este valabil \u0219i pentru b\u0103rba\u021bi &#8211; cum s\u0103 recunoa\u0219te\u021bi un b\u0103rbat g\u0103g\u0103uz \u00eembr\u0103cat \u00eentr-un hanorac modern? Noi nu cunoa\u0219tem istoria \u0219i este p\u0103cat&#8221;.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Cu toate acestea, lacunele de cuno\u0219tin\u021be nu o sperie pe Lidia. Ea cerceteaz\u0103 activ aceast\u0103 \u00eentrebare pe internet. Ea p\u0103streaz\u0103 fotografii vechi de arhiv\u0103, \u00een care costumul este clar vizibil, \u0219i trage anumite concluzii din aceasta, care o ajut\u0103 s\u0103 dezvolte ceva nou \u00een munca ei.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>\u201eCrearea costumului na\u021bional este una dintre direc\u021biile culturii noastre. Ini\u021bial, a trebuit s\u0103 p\u0103strez rochiile pentru ca ulterior s\u0103 pot dovedi c\u0103, \u00eentr-adev\u0103r, are dantel\u0103. Unii spun: \u201eNu avem broderii\u201d. Da, \u0219tiu, dar avem alte elemente. Nu existau costume str\u0103lucitoare? \u2013 Ba da, poftim! Eu am o colec\u021bie \u00een care apar costumele str\u0103lucitoare. Vedem culori aprinse la rochii din \u021bes\u0103turi fabricate. Dar \u00een colec\u021bia mea produsele <em>sunt<\/em> realizate din \u021bes\u0103turi personalizate. Materialul \u00een sine nu este larg, deoarece r\u0103zboaiele erau \u00eenguste. Acestea sunt \u00een principal \u021bes\u0103turi din l\u00e2n\u0103. \u00cen prezent, nu toate acestea sunt p\u0103strate, pentru c\u0103 face molii. Dar nu numai l\u00e2na a fost utilizat\u0103 ca materie prim\u0103 pentru \u021bes\u0103turi &#8211; bumbac, in \u0219i c\u00e2nep\u0103\u201d.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Lidia este convins\u0103 c\u0103 costumul na\u021bional \u00ee\u0219i poate rec\u0103p\u0103ta semnifica\u021bia. Este sigur\u0103 c\u0103 \u00een astfel de haine po\u021bi merge cu \u00eencredere prin ora\u0219, ar\u0103t\u00e2ndu-\u021bi identitatea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-3 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"274\" height=\"410\" src=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-6-of-27-274x410.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"26925\" data-full-url=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-6-of-27.jpg\" data-link=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/?attachment_id=26925\" class=\"wp-image-26925\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-6-of-27-274x410.jpg 274w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-6-of-27-127x190.jpg 127w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-6-of-27-768x1151.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-6-of-27.jpg 801w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 274px) 100vw, 274px\" \/><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"274\" height=\"410\" src=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-22-of-27-274x410.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"26972\" data-full-url=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-22-of-27.jpg\" data-link=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/?attachment_id=26972\" class=\"wp-image-26972\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-22-of-27-274x410.jpg 274w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-22-of-27-127x190.jpg 127w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-22-of-27-768x1151.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Todieva-22-of-27.jpg 801w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 274px) 100vw, 274px\" \/><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><em>\u201eAceast\u0103 cultur\u0103, trebuie pu\u021bin promovat\u0103. C\u00e2nd spun c\u0103 po\u021bi ie\u0219i \u00eembr\u0103cat \u00een stil na\u021bional, oamenii nu m\u0103 cred. Dar \u00een acest mod ne pierdem identitatea. Dimpotriv\u0103, trebuie s\u0103 o restaur\u0103m \u0219i s\u0103 ne deosebim de ceilal\u021bi. \u00cen 2019 am fost \u00een Arabia Saudit\u0103. Acolo oamenii de mii de ani poart\u0103 hainele care \u00eei reprezint\u0103. Este minunat s\u0103 fii fidel tradi\u021biilor, religiei tale\u201d.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>\u201e\u00cenainte, puteam spune dup\u0103 costum din ce sat provine o persoan\u0103. Ce na\u021bionalitate este. Ast\u0103zi \u00eentreaga lume este la fel \u2013 gri \u0219i \u00een blugi. Toat\u0103 lumea urm\u0103re\u0219te c\u00e2nd apar noi piese \u00een colec\u021bia mea. Cunosc colec\u021biile la memorie. Ultima comand\u0103 a fost f\u0103cut\u0103 de o fat\u0103 din Chi\u0219in\u0103u &#8211; a comandat un palton na\u021bional g\u0103g\u0103uz. Apoi a comandat o bluz\u0103 cu fust\u0103, tot din colec\u021bia noastr\u0103. Aleg din colec\u021biile care sunt sau comand\u0103 piese personalizate. Pentru c\u0103 toate aceste produse pe care le am, sunt ca o schi\u021b\u0103 pentru noile modele. Oamenii poart\u0103 astfel de lucruri pentru c\u0103 ast\u0103zi este deja la mod\u0103..<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>\u201e\u0218i noi putem cre\u0219te la nivelul \u00eenaltei mode dar pentru asta este nevoie de bani. Dac\u0103 cineva mi-ar spune ast\u0103zi: \u201eSunt gata s\u0103 pl\u0103tesc ca s\u0103 cre\u0103m o colec\u021bie \u00eenalt\u0103 mod\u0103 \u00een stil na\u021bional g\u0103g\u0103uz &#8211;&nbsp; eu sunt gata\u201d.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Lucr\u00e2nd la Centrul de art\u0103 pentru Copii, Lidia \u00eei \u00eenva\u021b\u0103 pe copiii istoria g\u0103g\u0103uz\u0103 \u0219i c\u00e2teva abilit\u0103\u021bi de cusut. Bine\u00een\u021beles, la costum, ea \u00eens\u0103\u0219i face cea mai complicat\u0103 parte &#8211; este o munc\u0103 prea responsabil\u0103. Unele dintre rochiile din colec\u021bia ei pot avea 50-60 de ani sau chiar mai mult, dar copiii sunt mul\u021bumi\u021bi de acest lucru &#8211; aceasta este o oportunitate de a se apropia de propria istorie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>\u201eLe insuflu dorin\u021b\u0103 \u0219i le povestesc despre istorie. Cu c\u00e2t\u0103 \u200b\u200bpl\u0103cere privesc fotografiile vechi &#8211; studiaz\u0103 istoria, povestesc istorioarele bunicilor lor. Fiecare familie are propriile pove\u0219ti \u0219i copiilor le este foarte interesant. Probabil, ei simt pasiunea mea \u00een aceast\u0103 munc\u0103 \u0219i acest lucru se transmite \u0219i lor\u201d.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>\u201eCel mai important lucru este ca istoria s\u0103 continue. De aceea facem asta ast\u0103zi, astfel \u00eenc\u00e2t s\u0103 le putem transmite copiilor no\u0219tri, ca ei s\u0103 cunoasc\u0103 mai multe despre noi, despre str\u0103mo\u0219ii lor\u201d.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Lidia este de asemenea cunoscut\u0103 ca  produc\u0103tor de p\u0103pu\u0219i<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":26911,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[139,135],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-26967","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-people-ro","category-people-and-places-ro"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.8 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Lidia Todieva \u2013 designerul care restaureaz\u0103 costumele na\u021bionale g\u0103g\u0103uze - GagauziaDialogue<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/gagauziadialogue.md\/ro\/lidiya-todieva-the-designer-who-restores-the-national-gagauz-costume\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ro_RO\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Lidia Todieva \u2013 designerul care restaureaz\u0103 costumele na\u021bionale g\u0103g\u0103uze - 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